In Slovenia and Croatia, the effects of war were there, but reflected only in subtle ways. In Bosnia, however, the scars of war hit us directly in the face.
Out of all the countries that made up former Yugoslavia, Bosnia experienced the most violence while trying to gain independence. Directly bordering Serbia, it was first damaged by the Serbian-dominated Yugo army, and then experienced further turmoil in a bloody civil war between ethnic groups trying to lay claim to territory after the fall of the regime.
Mostar is a small city divided physically and psychologically by the Naretva River. The Bosniaks, liberal Muslims, live on one bank, while the Roman Catholic Croats live on the other. A beautiful 16th century bridge united the riverbanks, and when Mostar was part of Yugoslavia the two groups were tolerant of one another, living peacefully.
In 1993, however, violence erupted between the Croats and Bosniaks in Mostar. The beautiful stone bridge was torn down, buildings were bombed, and thousands were killed as neighbor turned against neighbor.
Though peace was established through the Dayton Treaty in 1995, damage is still evident everywhere in the city. Bosnia's national government is still very fractured; foreign investment is lacking, unemployment is at 40%, and many Mostar citizens were killed or left the area, leaving abandoned homes and businesses behind.
There is hope in the ruins, however. The spirit of the Bosnian's remains, and the people of Mostar seem ready to forgive, though not forget. A few years ago outside funding was even provided to rebuild the old bridge. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, generating tourism revenue and symbolizing a reunited Mostar, a place moving forward from a violent past.
Our favorite Mostar moments:
- The scenic bus ride from Split to Mostar. The majority of the route took us down the spectacular Croatian coast, where mountains met the sea. We were inexplicably forced to change buses three times - at ad hoc bus stops - but the comedy of the situation and the scenery well made up for it.
- Walking through one of the many cemeteries in Mostar and being overwhelmed by all the graves from 1993.
- Watching an emotional video in the Mostar museum of the Croat forces shelling the bridge until it collapsed.
- Eating amazing traditional faire at Sadrvan, a restaurant near the old bridge. Our meal: duvec (vegetarian stew), stuffed onion, stuffed pepper, grape leaves, and smothered mushrooms. The food was so good we came back the next day for more.
- Surveying the damage on the street that was known as the front line during the conflict to see the severely shot-up and bombed buildings, debris, and abandoned structures firsthand. Making the haunting climb to the top floor of the "sniper's nest," an eight-story former bank that had been used as a gun tower.
Next stop: Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Out of all the countries that made up former Yugoslavia, Bosnia experienced the most violence while trying to gain independence. Directly bordering Serbia, it was first damaged by the Serbian-dominated Yugo army, and then experienced further turmoil in a bloody civil war between ethnic groups trying to lay claim to territory after the fall of the regime.
Mostar is a small city divided physically and psychologically by the Naretva River. The Bosniaks, liberal Muslims, live on one bank, while the Roman Catholic Croats live on the other. A beautiful 16th century bridge united the riverbanks, and when Mostar was part of Yugoslavia the two groups were tolerant of one another, living peacefully.
In 1993, however, violence erupted between the Croats and Bosniaks in Mostar. The beautiful stone bridge was torn down, buildings were bombed, and thousands were killed as neighbor turned against neighbor.
Though peace was established through the Dayton Treaty in 1995, damage is still evident everywhere in the city. Bosnia's national government is still very fractured; foreign investment is lacking, unemployment is at 40%, and many Mostar citizens were killed or left the area, leaving abandoned homes and businesses behind.
There is hope in the ruins, however. The spirit of the Bosnian's remains, and the people of Mostar seem ready to forgive, though not forget. A few years ago outside funding was even provided to rebuild the old bridge. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, generating tourism revenue and symbolizing a reunited Mostar, a place moving forward from a violent past.
Our favorite Mostar moments:
- The scenic bus ride from Split to Mostar. The majority of the route took us down the spectacular Croatian coast, where mountains met the sea. We were inexplicably forced to change buses three times - at ad hoc bus stops - but the comedy of the situation and the scenery well made up for it.
- Walking through one of the many cemeteries in Mostar and being overwhelmed by all the graves from 1993.
- Watching an emotional video in the Mostar museum of the Croat forces shelling the bridge until it collapsed.
- Eating amazing traditional faire at Sadrvan, a restaurant near the old bridge. Our meal: duvec (vegetarian stew), stuffed onion, stuffed pepper, grape leaves, and smothered mushrooms. The food was so good we came back the next day for more.
- Surveying the damage on the street that was known as the front line during the conflict to see the severely shot-up and bombed buildings, debris, and abandoned structures firsthand. Making the haunting climb to the top floor of the "sniper's nest," an eight-story former bank that had been used as a gun tower.
Next stop: Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina
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